Thursday, December 24, 2009

My Ideal Mountaineer's Around the World

Anatoli Boukreev Greatest Russian Mountaineer http://www.facebook.com/#/group.php?gid=14626190865    




                                                                                                             
Inaki Ochao De Olza  Greatest Spanish Mountaineer
http://www.facebook.com/#/group.php?gid=120940422853

Simone Moro Great Italian Mountaineer
http://www.facebook.com/#/group.php?gid=125531394193


                                          

Nazir Sabir  Great Pakistani   Mountaineer 
http://www.facebook.com/#/group.php?gid=113732250299  


Reinhold Messner  Greatest Italian Mountaineer (frist 14x8000r)
 http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=536194168&ref=profile#!/pages/Reinhold-Messner/23286622286
                                                                                                                                                   01


Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Another Way For Search

unfortunately the time and condition didn't favor my sponsor for the mentioned expedition , despite several try for sponsor,i couldn't get any good response. it happened the same last year, when i did my at most appeal to big organization.but all in vain since the country of mine is not mature about mountain climbing and adventure and more its future scope, having said that, the quest is on top and despite several hindrances, i will definitely work out for my dream projects,nothing can stop me even getting no sponsor!
now the seat has been booked for tomorrow,i will be away for three weeks, during this time, i will try to set out the plan according to weather and my physical condition, the top more important thing is that, i am looking for a partner,without partner climbing these new mountains will be more then risky! so first i will involve a like minded friend of me on the expedition to avoid any kind of uncertainty and risk!
this partner ship will lead us toward the main targets and projects of climbing all 14 8000m. there are friends those who are much strong and can carry such massive ventures which could be success promising ,if they dearly want to come up!
hope things will be quite fine,


the time in the Karakorum is now getting more sever and cold, since the winter is almost arriving there, according to a source, the mountains have now enough snow on the tops and few times snow has made things much challenging!
hope this venture will be successful and result oriented! for the next preparation in march/April.which will be last preparational expedition for next year double header!
the detail story will be shared to all those who spare their time ,looking at my site!
wish us Luck!
Mirza Ali




Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Naming the unnamed mountain and routes after the sponsor!

In my previous post i have mentioned that i will be climbing three mountains,in the Karakorum,pamir area ,Hunza/shimshal,out of these three mountains, two are unclimbed,

(Chishkin Sar 6400m and an Unnamed peak 6300m). my offer to the sponsor, is that, i will be naming the unnamed and unclimbed mountain and the routes  after the sponsor or enterprise!the launching details will be sent to k2climb.net and other online news channel and magazines as well ,since two of these mountains are unclimbed and unnamed!the unclimbed and unnamed peak route has been marked red,in the posted photos, the mountain and route will be named after the sponsor.
Chashkin Sar 6400m has not been climbed, and the route will be also named after the sponsor,if the sponsor sets any criteria for it too!

A detail report will be sent to the sponsor,movie along  photos (DVD)will be sent to the sponsor.


the story of the expedition will be put here on this blog in detail and also a special link will be given to the footage or video of the expedition will be given here,the story and photos will be also shared on my face book community,

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Three Head Climb Mission a Gate Way Toward my Life Objectives~

INTORDOCUTION
 My Name is Mirza Ali,from the frontier valley of pakistan,Hunza shimshal,a famous settlement in the Karakorum,well known for its highly reputed mountaineers and rich 

Wakhi culture. A student and young growing mountaineer, enormous passion for mountaineering and seeking ways to cherish my goals!

since my birth in the mountains and among glaciers (KARAKORUM/SHIMSHAL 3300m) and my early involvement in the mountaineering society, by and by it enriched in my blood, the craze, love and passion for mountaineering grew many folds as more then my expectations, my first climb of 6050m peak Mingligh sar is a record, being the youngest to climb any peak such as 6050m high in my country (Pakistan). it then pushed me times and again to go for more ventures, even having no resources as well as permission, it was time, when i hardly had a shoe of leather even not plastic climbing shoe!
My parents are very strict in not allowing me to climb, in the beginning, since they have phobia being far away (me) in the mountains and more the close association and their love for me. Now their support and guidance and realization of fact that I am working for a great cause to promote women adventurism in my country and also encouraging and become role model for the youths of my country, making and breaking myths and barriers, going in to the adventure sports ,particularly mountain climbing.
My love, passion and respect for adventure and mountains are unparalleled and unmatched to any other hobbies in my life. This love for mountains forced me now to go for some life time dreams which have been nestled in my mind and heart for last many years, right after several 6000+ climbs!
OBJECTIVES

My main life objective is to climb all fourteen 8000m peaks in the world and become the first Pakistani climber to make all fourteen 8000m peaks summit, I would wish and pray for the accomplishment in graceful and nice way. I do believe with my current position it’s not very viable, however my love for mountaineering is as strong as anything hardest…. And it’s my believe that my love and passion will find a way and people who will help me out in this mission of my life!
The second main life objective is to promote women adventurism in my country (Pakistan) and also introduce this mountaineering culture among the youths of this country, being the role model and leader, in the country I live; we have enormous potential and talents. Though i am not a very skilled and trained mountaineer but my struggle is both way hard, and trying to be very much adept in this field!
Through my mountain climbing, I would definitely work for peace in the region and in the world. my every single expedition I will dedicate to the world peace and humanity .addition to my objectives I have an idea to work for KARAKORUM REGION less privileged children and provide them an environment of life basic necessities, from basic education to other requirements, to work for the children of mountains, I do believe and appreciate some of my best friends those who have similar opinion and motif to assist the people for better future of this far flung and remote area people of karakorum,they encouraging me as well as assisting to go for the great cause, some among the best  Tania ( The ROCKER)! And more the one for life time, Tina! Who are my energy and my strength!
For the accomplishment of my above mentioned objective, I have now planned some very serious climbing from next year, the first step in this regard is a double header, my aim to climb Broad peak 8047m and G II 8035m in (2010)
To obtain my objectives, I have now planned an Expedition of climbing three 6000+ peaks in October. Out of these three mountains, two of them are unclimbed and one is unnamed as well as unclimbed, these climbs are my preparation for 2010 double header. The first phase of my training and preparation will lead me to next preparations in March /April.
Name of the Mountains
1>   Yergatak Peak (sunrise peak)           6335m
2>   Chashkin Sar   (Unclimbed peak)    6400m
3>   Unnamed and unclimbed peak        6300m
NAMING THE MOUNTAIN AND THE ROUTES AFTER THE SPONSOR!
My aim is to name the unnamed mountain to the enterprise or firma those who can sponsor me this expedition; I will also dedicate the route to the mountain which is not yet climbed by any mountaineer.
LOCATIONS OF MOUNTAINS
All three mountains are in the extreme Karakorum Range, Hunza/Shimshal. Near to china border. The two peaks are technical, the third one is semi technical but demanding. From the top of the two peaks, K2 and other high mountains can be seen; particularly very close view of K2 and other 8000m is very possible from the summit of unnamed and unclimbed peak!


Yergtak peak is the located in the east side of Shimshal vally, from where the peak is 
very easily viewed; the peak is only twice climbed. The first ascent was made by Shimshal mountaineers and the second ascent was made by German Expedition. Since then it’s not climbed!
Chashkin Sar: is located in Maidur valley an easy access from Purian Sar, the peak has a magnificent view, while passing on to Shimshal pass, the peak is a dome type, the  peak route will be from the east ridge!


this peak seems to be easy but the bad curves condition makes it more difficult and dangerous, however this peak has not yet climbed, and the plus point is that its the highest in this area,the peak access is very easy from both ways, three days trek from shimshal Via tang and same from shepodeen pass, the peak main location is in Maidur area, which is awesome and beautiful, plenty of Blue sheep and other wild birds are easy watchable!the beautiful view of this peak is from PurianSar,which is gate way to shimshal pamir,(shimshal pass).



Unnamed peak and unclimbed peak: this peak located in Shimshal pass (Shimshal Pamir, showerth) the peak has an interesting view from Shimshal pass, Shimshal pass is considered to be the most tourist visited place since its magnificent view and rich culture.  The peak has a very close 
view from the pass. A tall standing peak between to dome type  peaks, in the far left peak  we climbed for the first time in 2008 and named it Golden Jubilee peak, which is 6130m.
MY PARTNER
My partner is a 19 years old girl , who belongs from the same valley from where I am, Shimshal valley in the Extreme north-east of Pakistan and in the karakorum.the girl is very much interested to promote women adventurism in Pakistan with me, and therefore she is going with me on this autumn venture, she would be the only and first Pakistani girl to climb three mountains at one time, and more she would be the only first girl to climb a 6400m peak, this is a plus point of this autumn venture, the girl with me is to break all barriers and myths to pave a new way for women of this country to participate in the mountain climbing and adventure sports. This would be a break through in my country of participation of a girl in the autumn expedition, however I have organized a joint expedition in the summer this year, and a girl named Saadia sharjeel took part in the expedition, but couldn’t make her reach beyond camp I at 4647m. I do believe this venture will be a new history.
DURATION
This expedition is expected to be a three week expedition,
EXPEDITOIN COST
Since the cost of mountain expeditions are quite expensive, particularly in autumn which turns to be winter expedition in the Karakorum.
Hence being applying for my first sponsor and for long term cooperation, the money I am seeking and demanding is much less comparative to other expedition expenses. It’s just the expenses for the expedition not applied for making money.




Detail of Expenses
This costing is free of any compensation or reward the entire cost which is made covers the expedition expenses, and its believed the success will bring cooperation and sponsorship to my 8000m expeditions and next year double header,it will further be discussed in detail.
MY CLIMBING RECORD!
















S/No
Name of Peak
Name of Group
Height
Year
1
Minglig Sar
British
6050m
1998
2
Quiz Sar
Self
5900m
1999
3
Minglik Sar
Japan
6050m
2000
4
Wlio Sar
Self
6300m
2001
5
Minglik Sar
Self
6050m
2003
6
Minglik Sar
Dutch
6050m
2004
7
Spantik          (No Summit)
Dutch
7027m
2005
8
Sonia Peak
Dutch
6400m
2005
9
Ghoz Khon Sar
German
6400m
2007
10
Minglik Sar
German
6050m
2007
11
Ghoz Khon Sar
German
6400m
2008
12
Spantik          (No Summit)
Pak-Danish Joint Exp.
7027m
2009
Apart from this I have lead joint Pakistan-Danish Spantik expedition 2009, I am also doing rock climbing, and in the past tow months I can climb Grade 6a. And still taking the training! The club where I am taking the training is called Margalla Rock climbing Club; it’s a new established club under German instructor.
Addition to it, I have attached my recommendation letters from the people with whom I have worked.
MY LINKS WHERE I CAN ADVERTISE THE COMPANY OR SPONSOR IN TERMS OF NAMING THE MOUNTAINS AND ROUTE AFTER THE FIRMA OR ENTERPRISE.
MY BLOG
My flicker photo Link
http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=ketpakistan&w=all
My face book Community link!
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=37118372003
My Video Links
REPORT OF EXPEDITION TO SPONSOR!
 A detailed report of the expedition from its launching ceremony, climbing, and ending ceremony will be sent to the donor. A documentary movie and pictures will be taken during the expedition, a special thanks letter will be sent to the donor. Advertising can be made if the donor sets any criteria to advertise any product of the company in the shape of cloths, attached monogram of the company for the expedition, banners or any sort that the sponsors design. Advertising can be made while climbing on the mountain and during the trek. A special letter will be sent to lonely planet and K2climb.net.Everst news and other renowned adventure newspapers and bogs, regarding the expedition, sponsorship, name of the mountains routes of the mountains.



for further details please write me:
mirzaali1022@hotmail.com
ketpakistan@gmail.com

92-313-9992210 
92-51-5384825


Sunday, September 27, 2009


                                              Defining moment of Pakistani women
                                                           In the extreme sports
                                                    GhozKhon Sar Expedition 2009
To,
Marketing Head,
Head Office Islamabad.
PAKISTAN
Subject: Sponsorship for a Mountaineering Expedition and making of its
Documentary.
Dear Sir/Madam,
Please find enclosed a sponsorship proposal for your consideration.


I am submitting a sponsorship proposal for a mountaineering expedition and the making of its documentary. The expedition and the resulting documentary will be one of its kind as it will not only feature a women mountaineer of Pakistan for the first time, but will also expose areas of Pakistan which are bestowed with immense natural beauty but have never been shot before.


Mountaineering is a sadly neglected sport in Pakistan. The neglect is sad because Pakistan is home to five out of the world’s fourteen eight thousand meter peaks. Mountaineers from all over the world come to scale these peaks and yet our own country has been unable to produce female climber of any merit.


The absence of female climbers in our country is lamentable and this project aims to rectify this neglect. Also lamentable is the level of ignorance that prevails regarding this sport in particular and Northern areas in general.


I shall be grateful if you could take a few minutes of your time to look at the sponsorship opportunities enclosed and generously support this unique and exceptional initiative.


If you wish to discuss this further with me, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I will be in contact with you in the next couple of weeks to discuss this proposal.


Regards,
MirzaAli
Cell # 0313 9992210
Ph # 92-51-5384825
mirzaali1022@hotmail.co


PAKISTANI WOMEN VENTURING INTO THE FORBIDDEN TERRITORY


Times have certainly changed. Today women in Pakistan are working in every conceivable role. Even fields previously considered solely males’ domain are now open to women: army, police, you name it and women have made their entry there. We have a woman general in the army, we are proud to pass out the first batch in South Asia of Lady Rangers Officers (LROs) and the sight of female traffic wardens, smart in their uniform and alert in their duty must make every woman, proud.


However, despite all these strides made by the women and also by the society and the govt, female gender is still striving to prove itself in fields which are entirely dominated by men. Mountaineering being one such.


The reasons for this non existent female participation are numerous:


 Overall unawareness in society about mountain sports in general and mountaineering in particular.
 Long absence from home in complete wilderness, which the nature of this sport demands.
 This sport is highly expensive.
 The biasness and prejudice against women, which presupposes women’s’ incapability to climb.
RADICALITY OF THIS PROJECT
For all the above reasons, any project which would entail promoting, projecting, encouraging female mountaineers would be epoch making and historical, breaking myths and changing realities.


Nor is this project to be taken in isolation. It’s part of a bigger scheme of things, something which would culminate with Pakistani female/s on top of Everest. This, I think has become need of the hour. Around us, Everest has been climbed by Iranian, Indian, Nepali women. No Pakistani woman has ever climbed any of the 8000er. This becomes quite ironic when considered that Pakistan is home to five out of the fourteen 8000ers in the world.


This fact also sends a wrong message across, portraying the image of this nation as backward and hostile to women. Promotion of women mountaineers will help project the softer image of Pakistan, presenting us as a progressive and modern nation.


THE PROJECT
The project is to climb Ghoz khon Ser (6400ms) a peak situated in the Shimshal region of Pakistan. The peak is yet unclimbed by anyone. Our project can put the first female/s on top of it.
Surrounded by innumerable, fascinating and awe-inspiring peaks, glaciers, alpine meadows and trekking routes Shimshal is the last and inaccessible village of Pakistan about 3000meters above sea level. Living in this remotest of the place in Pakistan the sons of this land are matchless in terms of mountaineering prowess and techniques, and have made a remarkable contribution in mountaineering history of Pakistan. Shimshali men are globally recognized as guides and high altitude climbers.
Twenty men from Shimshal village have summitted one or more of Pakistan’s 8000m peaks, a feat unrivalled by any other village. In 1998, Rajab Shah became the first Pakistani to summit all five of Pakistan’s 8000m peaks.
Pakistani women are equal to these tasks and have everything on their side but the society.
EXPECTED OUTCOMES:
For one, this expedition will boost women’s confidence in themselves. It will become an example for many of those women out there, who only needed an example to make them realize their own potentials and capabilities. It will, through example, prove wrong all those prejudices and biases which claim that women are inherently not up to this task.


Further, it will boost the tourism industry, which has been the worst victim of the current law and order situation in Pakistan. In the wake of deteriorating law and order situation, the number of foreign tourists coming into our country has considerably declined. It is imperative therefore to encourage domestic tourism, which this project is expected to do, as the livelihood of the people of this region depends on this.


EXPEDITION DETAILS:
Expedition details along with the Itinerary and cost is as follows. It is based on a five person team: three climbers and two production team members. It can be modified according to the needs of the production.
Team members: 
saadia Sharjeel

Samina Khayal
Mirza Ali (Supervisor)
Itinerary:
PRPOSED PEAKS FOR THE EXPEDITION.
Both of the following peaks will afford abundant opportunities for filming areas of extreme natural beauty, never before filmed or aired by any TV channel of Pakistan. The landscape will vary from picturesque pastures, snow capped peaks, glaciers to snowy slopes of the mountains. The photographs attached of the area will give you a glimpse into the immense yet unexplored beauty of these areas.


SONIA PEAK (6400m)
Sonia Peak is located in the remote North Ghuzerav Mountains north of Shimshal close to the Chapchingol Pass. It falls within the boundaries of the Khunjerab National Park which is adjacent to the Tashkorgan National Park in China.
Even by Pakistan's standards the Ghuzerav Mountains are underexplored with numerous virgin peaks awaiting the intrepid climber. At the heart of the range is Sonia Peak, a beautiful pyramid of almost perfect symmetry. It is ideal for those looking for a technically easy climb in the outback of Pakistan's wilderness and is no more than an Alpine PD grade. Whilst the peak is relatively close to the KKH few people choose to climb mountains in the Karakoram Range this far north.
Sonia Peak was found and name by Michael Beek of Germany in 1994, the peak's name and climbing route was than first introduced in the first edition of the geman trekking guide "Pakistan-Land-Geschichte-Kultur" in 1996.


However in Lonely planet it mentioned that local Shimshali Rahmat Ullah Baig first climbed the peak. Sonia referring to an expedition members' wife. Dispite the mountain's remoteness it has since been climbed many times with the most popular route approaching from Chapchingol Base Camp to the East. A less familiar ascent can alternatively be made from the north along an unnamed glacier, which eventually leads to the KKH by way of a small river. The north ridge was first climbed by a Local Shimshali guide called Hasil Shah and resultantly referred to as the “Hasil Route”. This north route is considered safer then the south face with quicker assess.


GHOZKHON SAR (6400m)
Ghozkhon sar is a peak, yet unclimbed, situated in the Shimshal (pamir) region, this peak was first attempted by a Local climber Mirza Ali but couldn’t successes. The peak has an awesome look from the bas camp, famous braldu river gushes down adjacent to the bas camp of the peak, the historical “Quz”, which was used Chinese military as cantonment before demarcation of boundary between pak and china in the 1960’s. The shimshal pamir (shimshal pass) segregates central Asia; it has inspirational landscape, which has no alternative any where in the world.


Annual Wilio festival (Yak Racing) is found no anywhere in the world, this game is being played here for years in reminder of their great predecessor (Sher), who won the land by playing Polo on Yak back against Chinese with Horse. This festival attracts thousands of visitors across the world due to its uniqueness.


From the top of this peak, K2 and other 8000m peaks are easily viewed, the surrounding peaks are additional advantage of filming this peak expedition. women expedition to this unbeaten region is awesome and climbing an unclimbed peak is a History.


ITINERARY AND MINIMUM COST OF THE EXPEDITION;
Since mountaineering is an expensive sport, it requires huge amount of money and time, to organize expeditions. The cost of these expeditions (internationally) is more than $ 15,000. And mountaineering equipment costs more then $2000 per head, our expedition minimum cost is expected to be Rs 475000


Itineries:
GhozKhon Sar (6400m) Expedition 2009
is not included

Sonia peak (6400m) Expedition 2009


FINAL REPORT
A detailed report of the expedition from its launching ceremony, climbing, media briefing and ending ceremony will be sent to the donor. A documentary movie and pictures will be taken during the expedition, a special thanks letter will be sent to the donor. Advertising can be made if the donor sets any criteria to advertise any product of the company in the shape of cloths, attached monogram of the company for the expedition, banners or any sort that the sponsors design. Advertising can be made while climbing on the mountain and during media briefing.


For Further Details Contact
Mr. Mirza ali
Phone# 92-51-5384825
Cell# 92-3139992210
info@ketpakistan.com
mirzaali1022@hotmail.com
www.ketpakistan.com

Friday, June 26, 2009

By Mirza Ali

786
                                                                   PROPOSAL OF




                                        FIRST PAKISTANI WOMEN EXPEDITION
                                               MINGLISK SAR (6050M) 2007


                     A defining point for PAKISTANI WOMEN’S n the Adventurous Sports
                  An introductory expedition for PAKISTANI WOMEN’S in the field of
                                             MOUNTAINEERING
INTRODUCTION:
In the audacious sport, mountaineering has its own history identity and nuance, as other supports have been made their goodwill in every sphere, region and among different class of people in the same context mountaineering has now became more liked adventurous sport encircled by people in the world. Mountaineering was considered as men’s sport in prior history, but rapid change in the world and taste of the people has diversify it, women have now equal participation in mountaineering, since the first lady junko tabei from Japan surmount Everest on may 16th, 1975 which paved the role for women that they have equivalent infatuation and strength as men now women have equal involvement in this adventurous sport thousands of women join different size and class of expeditions around the world likewise, to Himalayas , Karakoram, Hindukush,Rockies mountains, Cascade mountain and many more mountain ranges lays between 3000 meters to 8811meters (mount Everest –most highest peak), in recent history many women have surpassed men’s in this sports many have been have been honored being first lady hosting for the first time their national flag on the top of the highest peak of the world like Everest K-2 and other 8000mthe pages show just mains heroism and effort of developing these sports in our dear country history portrays the love devotion and determination to introduce this sport even in harsh and horrible situation and hosted national flag on the top of these national sky towers
For last two years government of Pakistan has been conscious and encouraging ways to develop tourism industry in the country, to increase tourist flow in Pakistan as tourism is the third biggest industry, hundred of lives are associated to this industry, foreign exchange also play key role in national economic evolution, keeping close eyes on these top parameters which can flourish dwelling lives towards better –off an also bring affable environment between countries I am going to organize this expedition. To create peaceful environment in this country for foreign visitors that will develop a true image of Pakistan in those countries where Pakistan has Ill impression due to western or other media propaganda, for sectarian violence or terrorism. It is also propagated that in Pakistan is ascendancy society where women has no autonomous or independency, it is also promulgated that Pakistani women are just cons entrained within the house boundaries. It is not deniable that Pakistani women have made astounding progress and achieve many goals in their selected fields, for women have occupied there place in many sport in Pakistan and also represent Pakistan as national as well as international competitions but the number of participation is not adequate. Involvement of women is in simple sports not in adventurous sports like mountaineering (ice climbing, rock climbing, skiing etc)
The most adventurous sports are still in sluggish position.
Having my very close observation and experience about women’s life, future in the field of mountaineering. I have looking ways since my childhood any sorts of campaign for Pakistani women that could make them aware of their guts and skills, to make their equal role in developing adventurous Sports in the country. Therer for I am going to organize this yearmirzaali1022@hotmail.com/yahoo.com
Tele # 92-051-5384825 Cell # 03139992210